Each year in the port at La Rochelle there is a huge boat show called Le Grand Pavois [website], which lasts all week and culminates in a spectacular show combining boats, fireworks and music. As you probably know by now, we love anything like that, so when Kevin and Sylvie suggested we go over and watch it with them, we jumped at the chance.
Crocodiles?…in France?
We started the evening with a stroll through the park near their house. La Rochelle is somewhere we have passed around and through in the car, but have never had chance to explore, so it was really good to see some of the parts of the city that attract thousands of people here every week. It was a very picturesque park, with the path leading us through the trees, alongside a river, over bridges, and finally delivering us to the beach. All very nice indeed – we can certainly see the benefits of living here.
On the beach there was an amazing sand-sculpture of a crocodile (dragon?) which even had real fire in his nose! Apparently it was made by a guy who sleeps on the beach in a tent. He is certainly very talented.
Having walked along the walls of the old port, we spotted some empty places on the other side, our intended viewing position for the night’s entertainment. So we hopped on the little boat-bus that whizzed us across the water to the other side, where we found a good place to sit, right on the edge of the wall. No-one was going to come and stand in front of us!
Its Pineau time!
So we were settled in our spot with about 3 hours before the show was due to start, so what were we to do? Eat and drink of course! Out came the Pineau (naturally) and the snacks and we kept ourselves entertained by trying to pour the drink into the tiniest of glasses in a strong wind 
and watching the boys demonstrating their jedi skills to the passing french…
While we waited, the boats that were going to take part in the show drifted past us into the port, and shortly after we were entertained (slightly) by some waveriders (like water-skiers but on a single ski) going up and down down the odd trick. Rather strangely there was also a barge going up and down the water containing some Irish dancers, although there didn’t seem to be much dancing going on which was a bit disappointing.
Anyway, as the sun slowly dipped down behind the La Rochelle skyline, the time for the start of the show approached.
Into the west
As darkness finally enveloped the port-side, it began. Firstly, all the boats, lit by simple torches, floated slowly from the port and out to sea accompanied by some beautifully haunting music and some lovely “gentle” fireworks. It was a really moving start and reminded me (geek that I am) of the ending of “The Return of the King” when the elves sail off into the west… anyway, don’t get me started on that!
After the parade of boats, the fireworks started in earnest, with an incredible display. The walls of the port and the buildings facing us were all lit in a variety of colours to tie in with the fireworks and there was music piped across the port. I know we say it every time we have been to a fireworks display, but we all thought that this one was simply the best one yet. I think the combination of the location, the music, the lights, the fireworks, and sharing it with great friends, made it such a breathtaking end to the day.
We were all very numb after sitting on the port-side for so long, but the wine and the pineau helped out there, and it was all worth it in the end.
On Saturday night we paid a visit to a most amazing evening of entertainment that was only 10 minutes from our door. Each year, the village of Nieul-sur-l’Autise is sealed off and puts on a evening of music, dance and many other entertainments from various eras of the village’s history. All this is set throughout one of the most beautiful villages in the Vendee, with the backdrop the stunning 11th-century abbey. The evening is entitled “Nieul, Village de Lumière” and is a very well organised night out.
We arrived into the parking area, very well signposted and marshalled by some chaps in hi-viz jackets. Carcassonne could learn something from this for Bastille Day! Then, after paying a very reasonable €5 each for entry, we strolled into the village itself. What a beautiful place it was. Apparently the abbey was granted the title of Royal Abbey in the 12th century by Eleanor of Aquitaine, so the place is steeped in history. I have to say the abbey was truly stunning. It was a lovely clear summer’s evening and this gave the building a fantastic background. From every angle it was a picture-postcard scene. I could have taken hundreds of photos of it…
We walked through the abbey and the cloisters – some really amazing architecture and the gardens were beautiful. We’re not religious in any way, but there was certainly something about the building that was very peaceful – one could almost imagine the monks shuffling silently around hundreds of years ago.
In contrast, the shows that were dotted around the village were not so peaceful. Upon arival we were treated to “le french cancan” – yes, they say french rather than français! - all screams and whoops and clapping wildly.
There was a flamenco dancer, some traditional French folk dancing and a live performance by a baroque group (I’m not sure if they called it baroque-and-roll, but it was quite jolly ). This gave way to a show based in the same period which featured various characters in fencing duels – nice to see some ladies taking part in this one! There was also a brass band from the Napoleonic era playing traditional songs and firing VERY LOUD guns – a little more warning would have been appreciated chaps!
There was also a “dancing fountains” show, where fountains are played with lights and they weave patterns to music – this was very impressive. The path up to this show was lit by different coloured lights shining under umbrellas on the ground. I really liked this affect and was a great way to set the mood for the entertainment to come.
As the darkness fell, the abbey and the surrounding buildings were lit up with combinations of lasers, lights and projections. The abbey itself had some amazing stained-glass effects projected onto its front elevation – something quite unusual but also beautiful.
There were various bars and restaurants around, and when it got to around 10pm were were getting peckish. It was then that we discovered the only bad thing about the evening – everyone had run out of chips! I know, what a nightmare! We had seen people walking round with some huge chip butties (sorry, “baguettes aux frites“) and by the time we got round to getting one they had all gone. We had to make do with a hot dog (well, just a bun for Lisa, being a veggie) and it was not really the same. Still, we got over our disappointment and managed to make it to midnight when the fireworks began.
Wow. What an incredible display. We thought the Bastille Day show at Carcassonne was good, but I think this show was at least an equal to it. Only 15 minutes long, but it was set to music and contrasted lively music and huge explosive fireworks with downbeat music and pretty colourful fireworks. The whole effect was stunning and we were left totally speechless.
At the end of the night, as we were guided out of the village by the same friendly marshalls and gendarmes, we were left thinking what a great night it had been. All that entertainment right on our doorstep for just €5 each. Now that’s what I call value for money.
It was certainly an entertaining weekend.
On Saturday we entertained Nathalie (Joe’s teacher and the one who Lisa goes in to help with the English lessons) and her family. What a lovely family they are, and we had a really good time. We were a little concerned at our first major “night in” where we would only speak french, but I think we managed it pretty well. The dictionary was out, but we only referred to it on a couple of occasions and made ourselves understood for the rest of the night. Lisa made us all a beautiful meal and we finished the evening playing guitars and singing – something we haven’t done for ages, and we never thought we’d get chance to do again.
The kids meanwhile were off entertaining themselves with playstations and DVDs, breaking down the language barriers in the way that only kids can do. We had a wonderful night and hope to have many more. We are so lucky to count them as our friends after such a short time in the country, and especially sharing a love of music – something that has been sadly missing from our lives since we moved here.
So then we barely had had time to wash up from one evening’s entertainment (oh, to have a dishwasher) and we were preparing for our next guests on Sunday. This time it was an ex-work-colleague of Lisa’s. Helen and her family come to France every year and this year they were coming to Les Sables d’Olonne. As this is only just over an hour from us, it was great that they could come over and see us.
Once again, we had a lovely day. They have two lovely daughters who got on really well with our three – amazing as this was the first time they had met. By the end of the day they were trading MSN addresses and promising to keep in touch. I had finally got some legs for the old door that we salvaged in order to construct a big rustic table, so we set this up on the field, under the gazebo, and ate another lovely meal our there. We ended up all playing cards and taught each other new games to play – great fun. Sadly the €3 trestle legs the table was resting on started collapsing as the games got more vigorous, so it’s back to the drawing board on that one, but luckily we had another more substantial table to work with.
It was another fantastic day, just the kind of weekend we love, surrounded by great friends. Its funny how you really get to know people so much better when you see them out of their normal environment. We have noticed this with the friends and family that have visited us here previously, but it was especially evident yesterday. Helen had worked in the same school as Lisa, but they had never really socialised before. And the rest of us barely knew the rest of the family. But by the end of the day we felt like we were old friends and hoping to meet up again soon.
And of course, we ourselves have been entertained by our two new additions. Charlie and Lola have settled in well to their new home and are really starting to feel like part of the family. Charlie is clearly the biggest trouble-maker, finding the best places to explore and hide, then calling Lola over to join in. As I write this, they have managed to find the shelf under my desk and are both asleep there cuddled up together. I have the feeling that I may have this kind of company whenever I work from now on, which is really rather nice.
